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		<title><![CDATA[RC Masters: Latest News]]></title>
		<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The latest news from RC Masters.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Apr 2026 16:36:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<isc:store_title><![CDATA[RC Masters]]></isc:store_title>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Troublesooting Problems Common to Electric and Nitro]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/troublesooting-problems-common-to-electric-and-nitro/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 20 Jan 2013 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/troublesooting-problems-common-to-electric-and-nitro/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Have you tried this RC hobby and are somewhat intimidated?&nbsp;</p><p>You may feel like there’s so
much you need to learn and you may not know a lot about. Well, no need to fuss. Here, you will understand
how RC cars work, learn about fast fixes and race-saving solutions to the most
common hang-ups and problems related to both electric and nitro RC. This guide
will offer valuable, must-know advice for any RC situation, from diagnosing the
problem and providing basic troubleshooting technique, you can never go wrong.</p><ul><li>Differential slipping – A
well built and well-maintained diff is a must. Diff slips may damage the gears
and this would need to be shimmed. A quick fix is to install a shim/washer to
the crown wheel, which would provide the push needed onto the pinion so the
gears mesh correctly.</li><li>Dogbones come out – This
could be caused by a bent dogbone or there must be some loose parts. The
solution to this could be a replacement of the bent part, tightening the parts
that have come out loose or inserting a small rubber (cut out pencil eraser
will do the trick) at the end of each dogbone. The dogbone should have a snug
fit so try to loosen it out slightly and retighten it to do some adjustments
with the fitting.</li><li>Steering servo not working
– To test if the servo is faulty you can unplug both the steering servo and
throttle servo from the receiver and try switching their plug positions and
check if they have exchanged their functions. You must identify if the problem is
from the servo or something in the steering assembly. First, make sure the
steering is not too stiff. Try disconnecting the steering from the steering
servo by removing the only screw that attaches the horn and check if you can
move it by hand and see if it’s still tight.</li><li>Wheels spinning in opposite
direction – Don’t think it’s much of a problem since wheels really turn in
different directions when you let them spin freely. It’s normal for most RC
cars to have a differential that could make them go around corners.</li><li>Tires falling off rims -
Although the parts may fit together nicely, a bead of Cyanno glue helps keep
the inserts inside and the tires on the rim. Gluing the tire to the rim will
keep it from falling off.</li><li>Shocks leaking – Shocks
could leak often due to extreme pressure inside it caused by expansion of the
air due to heat. If it leaks small amount of oil it is quite normal but if you
think it’s leaking excessively then you might need to replace and rebuild the
shocks.</li><li>Battery not charging – For
electric cars, if the battery won’t charge it is most likely defective and will need to be replaced.</li><li>Engine does not work or is jerky - Batteries are often the obvious and simple cause of many RC problems.
Not running at all, running very slowly, or even stopping suddenly can be
battery-related. So check your batteries first and use a multimeter to measure the
voltage of the car battery. Simply slip the mulitmeter probes on back of the
plug while the engine is running (car off the ground) and check if it shows
&gt; 7 volts. There are also a few things to check like the steering servo
plug, ESC plug, ESC to engine plugs, switch to receiver, ESC to motor plug and
the two crystals on both the transmitter and receiver for 27Mhz frequencies. Please note that all
three receiver plugs are plugged in with the black wire normally to the outside
of the receiver.</li><li>Smoking engine – Smoke may
come out if your motor is running extremely hot. Try keeping your temperature
under control and avoid too much resistance on the car. Dirt in the engine
could be one factor, if so, just remove the bell housing and clean it out using
an air compressor or some methylated substance.</li><li>Controls reversed – You
have to check the settings of your transmitter first. A quick fix would be
switching the controls to normal and that should work.</li><li>Radio control not working –
There’s not much of a difference in troubleshooting nitro and electric vehicle
when it comes to non-working radio controls. For both nitro and electric RC,
make sure that the aerials are damage free, properly extended and screwed correctly. Check
the batteries, too. You should ensure they are fully charged and that you have
8 cells installed in the transmitter and 4 in the car (for nitro) and 8
batteries in the transmitter and a large battery in the car (for electric). See
to it that the transmitter aerial fits snugly but not too tight. Over tightened
aerials could lead to loose aerial mounting screw in the transmitter. The
crystals (27Mhz transmitters) and the receiver plugs must be fully secured. Also try unplugging all
the receiver plugs and put them back in.</li><li>Shaking servos – Low
battery power is the common cause of this problem. Especially on 1/8 scale
trucks with very powerful steering servo, it can cause the voltage to drop
below 4.8 volts. Rechargeable batteries may help you best in this kind of
situation.</li></ul><p>An RC that stops running,
is unresponsive or just won’t really work can be so frustrating. But more often
than not, it’s caused by something very simple and knowing basic
troubleshooting techniques could pretty much solve your case. So before you get
discouraged why not try looking at the most common reasons and consider fixing
these trouble areas first. Always check the obvious, like the batteries and
switches. It would help if you can eliminate the
simple problems first before attempting even complicated repairs and
adjustments.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Have you tried this RC hobby and are somewhat intimidated?&nbsp;</p><p>You may feel like there’s so
much you need to learn and you may not know a lot about. Well, no need to fuss. Here, you will understand
how RC cars work, learn about fast fixes and race-saving solutions to the most
common hang-ups and problems related to both electric and nitro RC. This guide
will offer valuable, must-know advice for any RC situation, from diagnosing the
problem and providing basic troubleshooting technique, you can never go wrong.</p><ul><li>Differential slipping – A
well built and well-maintained diff is a must. Diff slips may damage the gears
and this would need to be shimmed. A quick fix is to install a shim/washer to
the crown wheel, which would provide the push needed onto the pinion so the
gears mesh correctly.</li><li>Dogbones come out – This
could be caused by a bent dogbone or there must be some loose parts. The
solution to this could be a replacement of the bent part, tightening the parts
that have come out loose or inserting a small rubber (cut out pencil eraser
will do the trick) at the end of each dogbone. The dogbone should have a snug
fit so try to loosen it out slightly and retighten it to do some adjustments
with the fitting.</li><li>Steering servo not working
– To test if the servo is faulty you can unplug both the steering servo and
throttle servo from the receiver and try switching their plug positions and
check if they have exchanged their functions. You must identify if the problem is
from the servo or something in the steering assembly. First, make sure the
steering is not too stiff. Try disconnecting the steering from the steering
servo by removing the only screw that attaches the horn and check if you can
move it by hand and see if it’s still tight.</li><li>Wheels spinning in opposite
direction – Don’t think it’s much of a problem since wheels really turn in
different directions when you let them spin freely. It’s normal for most RC
cars to have a differential that could make them go around corners.</li><li>Tires falling off rims -
Although the parts may fit together nicely, a bead of Cyanno glue helps keep
the inserts inside and the tires on the rim. Gluing the tire to the rim will
keep it from falling off.</li><li>Shocks leaking – Shocks
could leak often due to extreme pressure inside it caused by expansion of the
air due to heat. If it leaks small amount of oil it is quite normal but if you
think it’s leaking excessively then you might need to replace and rebuild the
shocks.</li><li>Battery not charging – For
electric cars, if the battery won’t charge it is most likely defective and will need to be replaced.</li><li>Engine does not work or is jerky - Batteries are often the obvious and simple cause of many RC problems.
Not running at all, running very slowly, or even stopping suddenly can be
battery-related. So check your batteries first and use a multimeter to measure the
voltage of the car battery. Simply slip the mulitmeter probes on back of the
plug while the engine is running (car off the ground) and check if it shows
&gt; 7 volts. There are also a few things to check like the steering servo
plug, ESC plug, ESC to engine plugs, switch to receiver, ESC to motor plug and
the two crystals on both the transmitter and receiver for 27Mhz frequencies. Please note that all
three receiver plugs are plugged in with the black wire normally to the outside
of the receiver.</li><li>Smoking engine – Smoke may
come out if your motor is running extremely hot. Try keeping your temperature
under control and avoid too much resistance on the car. Dirt in the engine
could be one factor, if so, just remove the bell housing and clean it out using
an air compressor or some methylated substance.</li><li>Controls reversed – You
have to check the settings of your transmitter first. A quick fix would be
switching the controls to normal and that should work.</li><li>Radio control not working –
There’s not much of a difference in troubleshooting nitro and electric vehicle
when it comes to non-working radio controls. For both nitro and electric RC,
make sure that the aerials are damage free, properly extended and screwed correctly. Check
the batteries, too. You should ensure they are fully charged and that you have
8 cells installed in the transmitter and 4 in the car (for nitro) and 8
batteries in the transmitter and a large battery in the car (for electric). See
to it that the transmitter aerial fits snugly but not too tight. Over tightened
aerials could lead to loose aerial mounting screw in the transmitter. The
crystals (27Mhz transmitters) and the receiver plugs must be fully secured. Also try unplugging all
the receiver plugs and put them back in.</li><li>Shaking servos – Low
battery power is the common cause of this problem. Especially on 1/8 scale
trucks with very powerful steering servo, it can cause the voltage to drop
below 4.8 volts. Rechargeable batteries may help you best in this kind of
situation.</li></ul><p>An RC that stops running,
is unresponsive or just won’t really work can be so frustrating. But more often
than not, it’s caused by something very simple and knowing basic
troubleshooting techniques could pretty much solve your case. So before you get
discouraged why not try looking at the most common reasons and consider fixing
these trouble areas first. Always check the obvious, like the batteries and
switches. It would help if you can eliminate the
simple problems first before attempting even complicated repairs and
adjustments.</p>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Nitro Remote Control - RC]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/nitro-remote-control-rc/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 19 Jan 2013 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/nitro-remote-control-rc/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Nitro Remote Control
vehicles are some of the most popular variants in the RC hobby. Nitro refers to
the fuel that powers these vehicles—Nitro Fuel also known as Glow Fuel or Hobby
Fuel. RC Cars, Trucks, Helicopters, Planes and Boats can be powered by engines
feeding on Nitro Fuel. This type of fuel is a mixture of nitromethane, methanol
and oil.</p><p>Nitro Remote Control is a big favourite because it provides good power,
performance and speed. Some enthusiasts also say the noise and smoke from Nitro
RC engines add realism to the hobby.</p><h2>Nitro RC Helicopter :</h2><p>RC Helicopters that have an
engine running on Glow Fuel is called a Nitro RC Helicopter. These are
high-performance helicopters that offer the lowest cost option among fuel-powered
variants, that’s why they are still very popular until today even with the
increasing appeal of Electric RC Helicopters. Nitro engines in helicopters are
powerful for their size and can produce high RPMs—from 13,000 to 16000.</p><p>These helicopters come in
different sizes. And the way the size of these Nitro RC helicopters is gauged
is through the size of their engines. Therefore, a size 30 helicopter should
mean it packs a .30 cubic inch Nitro engine.</p><h2>Nitro RC Boats :</h2><p>RC Boats running on Nitro
Fuel is a great choice if you value performance over other considerations. It
would help if you have prior experience in nitro engines in other vehicles so
you avoid scenarios like having a stalled boat in the middle of a lake. Like any
other vehicle using a Glow engine, Nitro Remote Control Boats require an owner
that’s more hands-on because of the setup and maintenance required.</p><p>Important things to keep in
mind:</p><ul>
<li>Check restrictions before
running your Nitro Remote Control watercraft on a local park pond</li><li>Be organized; bring your
tools and spare parts so you can play all day</li><li>Have a travel case so you
can transport and keep your boat safe</li><li>Always clean &amp; lubricate your boat after use.</li></ul><h2>RC Nitro Cars, Trucks &amp; Buggies :</h2><p>RC Nitro vehicles have engines running on nitro fuel.  These vehicles can be off-road or on-road. Trucks &amp; Buggies in particular are ideal for off-road use because of their rugged build, higher ground
clearance and the power they pack. &nbsp;</p><p>Nitro Remote Control vehicles powered by Nitro are popular to hobbyists
who want realism of a roaring machine and those who want to tinker on a
variety of engine components. Anyone who intends to keep a Nitro RC vehicle in good shape should have the proper tools and know-how in maintaining the engine and its
different parts.</p><p>Important Tips:</p><ul>
<li>Do regular maintenance</li><li>Tune your engine for better
performance</li><li>Choose your racing
obstacles carefully to avoid breakages</li></ul><h2>Nitro RC parts – What You Need to Have</h2><p>Spare parts for your Nitro
RC vehicles are an important part of the hobby. Nitro RC parts should always be
within reach whenever you go out to play. This includes, but is not limited to,
glow plug accessories, filters, exhausts and filters.&nbsp;</p><p>RC Masters has a large
inventory of Nitro RC parts for you to choose from.</p><p>Nitro Remote Control (RC)</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nitro Remote Control
vehicles are some of the most popular variants in the RC hobby. Nitro refers to
the fuel that powers these vehicles—Nitro Fuel also known as Glow Fuel or Hobby
Fuel. RC Cars, Trucks, Helicopters, Planes and Boats can be powered by engines
feeding on Nitro Fuel. This type of fuel is a mixture of nitromethane, methanol
and oil.</p><p>Nitro Remote Control is a big favourite because it provides good power,
performance and speed. Some enthusiasts also say the noise and smoke from Nitro
RC engines add realism to the hobby.</p><h2>Nitro RC Helicopter :</h2><p>RC Helicopters that have an
engine running on Glow Fuel is called a Nitro RC Helicopter. These are
high-performance helicopters that offer the lowest cost option among fuel-powered
variants, that’s why they are still very popular until today even with the
increasing appeal of Electric RC Helicopters. Nitro engines in helicopters are
powerful for their size and can produce high RPMs—from 13,000 to 16000.</p><p>These helicopters come in
different sizes. And the way the size of these Nitro RC helicopters is gauged
is through the size of their engines. Therefore, a size 30 helicopter should
mean it packs a .30 cubic inch Nitro engine.</p><h2>Nitro RC Boats :</h2><p>RC Boats running on Nitro
Fuel is a great choice if you value performance over other considerations. It
would help if you have prior experience in nitro engines in other vehicles so
you avoid scenarios like having a stalled boat in the middle of a lake. Like any
other vehicle using a Glow engine, Nitro Remote Control Boats require an owner
that’s more hands-on because of the setup and maintenance required.</p><p>Important things to keep in
mind:</p><ul>
<li>Check restrictions before
running your Nitro Remote Control watercraft on a local park pond</li><li>Be organized; bring your
tools and spare parts so you can play all day</li><li>Have a travel case so you
can transport and keep your boat safe</li><li>Always clean &amp; lubricate your boat after use.</li></ul><h2>RC Nitro Cars, Trucks &amp; Buggies :</h2><p>RC Nitro vehicles have engines running on nitro fuel.  These vehicles can be off-road or on-road. Trucks &amp; Buggies in particular are ideal for off-road use because of their rugged build, higher ground
clearance and the power they pack. &nbsp;</p><p>Nitro Remote Control vehicles powered by Nitro are popular to hobbyists
who want realism of a roaring machine and those who want to tinker on a
variety of engine components. Anyone who intends to keep a Nitro RC vehicle in good shape should have the proper tools and know-how in maintaining the engine and its
different parts.</p><p>Important Tips:</p><ul>
<li>Do regular maintenance</li><li>Tune your engine for better
performance</li><li>Choose your racing
obstacles carefully to avoid breakages</li></ul><h2>Nitro RC parts – What You Need to Have</h2><p>Spare parts for your Nitro
RC vehicles are an important part of the hobby. Nitro RC parts should always be
within reach whenever you go out to play. This includes, but is not limited to,
glow plug accessories, filters, exhausts and filters.&nbsp;</p><p>RC Masters has a large
inventory of Nitro RC parts for you to choose from.</p><p>Nitro Remote Control (RC)</p>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Things to Know About Nitro RC vehicles]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/things-to-know-about-nitro-rc-vehicles/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jan 2013 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/things-to-know-about-nitro-rc-vehicles/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Are you the type of person who loves
smoke and noise?&nbsp;</p><p>Do you have a passion for extremely fast cars?&nbsp;</p><p>Well, you might
just be obsessed with nitro RC vehicles and must feel a bit stumped especially
when you’re new to the nitro RC world. It’s not much of a fuss as long as you
follow the necessary precautions and avoid the most common mistakes beginners
make. Check out the following tips on starting a nitro powered engine.</p><ul><li>Avoid pulling the pull
starter if the engine is flooded - Much like the pull start mechanism on a
lawnmower, a pull cord is attached to the nitro engine and you will have to
pull the T-handle attached to the starter cord assembly to spin the flywheel
and start the engine. But when the cord becomes difficult to pull, don’t force
it. This just means that the engine is flooded, and pulling it will just snap
the line. If this happens, remove the glow plug and turn the car upside down
then pull the starter twice to remove excess fuel. Remember not to pull the
pull start cord out more than 20 cm as this may bend the spring and/or snap the
cord.</li></ul><ul><li>Never restrain the wheels –
Always start the car with the wheels off the ground. Let the wheels spin freely
and make sure the brake is off, otherwise it will result to overheating and
will melt the nylon drive gears.</li></ul><ul><li>Ensure the brake is off
before starting the car – Try pushing the car forward and if it gives a bit of
resistance, chances are the brake is on. Make certain you turn off the brakes before starting the car. Failure to do so might cause the clutch to overheat
and will melt the nylon drive gears.</li></ul><ul><li>Don’t replace the nylon
gear with a metal gear – The nylon gear will provide a safety margin of 60
degrees since they melt at about 220 degrees Celsius while the aluminum clutch
bell will break at 280 degrees. Metal on metal also wears out very quickly when
not lubricated and lubricating gears often may wear it out even more as
lubricants attract too much dust and dirt. The lighter the car, the quicker it
is and metal gears are way heavier than nylon ones and it will most likely
impede the car’s ability to accelerate.</li></ul><p>You may be interested in
getting a nitro RC vehicle and you certainly want to know how it works first and
the basic setup involved in obtaining one. These following steps will help you
prepare, start and break-in your nitro engine.</p><ul><li>Charge glow igniter – This
is mainly the first thing you need to do once you open up your starter kit.
Without it, you will not be able to even start the car. After charging your igniter you should make sure the glow plug
igniter is not left on the glow plug too long else it will burn out.</li><li>Install radio batteries –
put 8 batteries into the transmitter and 4 into the receiver (nitro cars only)
and make sure for rechargeable ones that they are fully charged before
installing them. Once the batteries are in, first turn on the transmitter, then
the receiver. If you ever turn on the receiver on the car first, it won't have
a signal from the transmitter to follow, and may go out of control.</li><li>Fill the tank - Pour some
fuel into the starter kit's fuel bottle. Fill up the fuel tank with nitro, and
make sure all fuel lines are connected to their ports. Make sure you are using
proper high quality Hobby fuel with correct nitro percentage (20 – 30% nitro),
unless stated otherwise in the manual. One thing you have to remember is not to
bend the fuel lid right back. This will result to bent spring in the lid and
will not pressurize the fuel tank.</li><li>Install your air filter –
Some models may already have the air filter readily installed. If not, just
install yours onto the carburetor. It may come with a zip tie that you can use
to secure it to the engine.</li><li>Standing your antenna up -
Antennas are important in RC car setup. You will have to insert the wire first
through the antenna mount of the car, and then right through the tube and
finally the tube goes into the tube mount. But in case of longer wire, let the
line hang freely and don’t cut it.</li><li>Turning on your transmitter
first - Remember: transmitter always goes on first, and off last.</li><li>Check for proper operation
of servos – While engine is not running you can check if steering, throttle and
brake servos are working correctly with the use of the transmitter and
receiver. RC servos are used to provide actuation for various
mechanical systems such as the steering of a car. Ensure that the wheels of
your vehicle are off the ground so it can spin freely if you want to test how
the servos are operating. When you apply the throttle, it opens up the
carburetor and when the brakes are applied, the carb is closed almost all the
way, and the brakes are then engaged.</li><li>Checking the radio range -
Make it a habit to always test your range before you drive your car and ensure
you’re free from any radio interference particularly with the 27Mhz frequency that can be caused by power lines or 2-way radios that transmit on a similar frequency. To do
a range check you can walk 5 meters away from the car with the models aerial
fully extended and the transmitter aerial fully down. Turn on the radio system
and check that all servos are working correctly. Do not attempt to drive your
car if you notice any radio problems or interference and see to it that the
batteries are strong and fully charged.</li><li>Prime the engine with fuel
- This is simple, just put your finger over the exhaust port and pull the cord
a few times until you see the fuel go through the line and into the carburetor.
Once the fuel reaches the carb, stop or you will flood the engine. Cold engines
require more priming than hot engines.</li><li>Starting a nitro engine –
Don’t start your engine unless you have fully read and understood the
directions. Assuming you’ve gone over everything and now that the engine is
primed, it’s ready to run. Clip the igniter onto the glow plug and pull on the
cord. Make sure you do short, quick pull.</li><li>Keep the engine running –
The first time you start it, chances are it won’t stay running and you may not
be able to run it like you want to. You have to break it in and set the mixture
correctly to make the engine last longer. You can try turning the throttle trim
dial on the transmitter to keep the engine revved up. If the engine stalls, you
may have to adjust the idle and slightly raise it.</li><li>Proper engine break-in -
Before you start to run the car as much as you want, it is very important
(crucial, even) that you break in the engine. You may encounter stalling and
inconsistent runs but these are all normal until you get to break in the engine
and set the mixture. If you do it properly, it will help you achieve the
highest possible performance and reliability.</li><li>Break-in procedures -
Basically all you do is run the car at low speeds for a few tanks of gas. Keep
in mind that the wheels should be off the ground and the brake must be off.
Simply idle 3 tanks of fuel, allowing the engine to cool down between tanks.
Remember to always check your car for loose nuts and bolts. After the first
run, go over your car and make sure all the screws are tight, especially the
engine bolts. You can try using a Locktite (like a soft glue) to help keep the
nuts and bolts in place, since they tend to come loose due to vibration. After
the third tank, check the gap between the metal clutch gear and the nylon drive
gear. There should just be a really small gap that could allow 2 pieces of thin
paper between the 2 gears. If the gap is bigger than what’s necessary, you may
adjust by undoing the screws and sliding the engine closer. For your succeeding
tanks, you can gradually increase how hard you run the engine. Soon enough you
can do it however you want.</li><li>Break-in mixture settings –
Most engines are pre-set with the default mixture settings from the factory.
This should be good unless you would need to adjust the setting for different
conditions. When you need to change the mixture settings, record the factory
settings. Count and record the turns so you can wind them back to default.</li><li>Running the first tanks in
the car – You may have broken in your engine at this point and hopefully you
did it correctly using this guide. Try a smooth surface first on your first run
and check the steering trim to make sure it’s properly adjusted.</li><li>Engine tuning - When it
comes to RC vehicles, tuning is essential in order to achieve more speed or
power. The overall performance of the engine greatly depends on how you tune
the mixture. We have the rich and lean setting; both terms are used to describe
the amount of fuel entering the carburetor. Lean means less fuel while rich
means more. If you want to have a leaner setting, turn the carburetor needles
clockwise, while counter-clockwise would help you achieve a richer setting.
Make sure you’re not running too lean as this may damage your engine. Engine
life should be operating around temperatures 104-115 degrees Celsius or 220-240
degrees Fahrenheit.</li><li> Fine tuning – This
would mean adjusting slowly the low-speed mixture and idle screw. Note that if
the engine splutters, it is too rich and when it tries to cut out, it has a
lean setting. You would have to listen to the way the engine revs from idle to
determine your current setting.</li><li>Installing the body clips -
Putting on body clips on an RC car is easy. You just have to align the holes in
the body with the body mounts. Then clip the pins on through the holes and you
can pretty much adjust the height of the body by lowering the clips.</li><li>How to stop the engine –
You can stop the engine by either blocking the air using your fingers or squeezing
the fuel line to the carb.</li><li>After run maintenance -
Make sure the fuel tank is empty. You can attempt to run the engine until all
the extra fuel is burned up. Lastly, remove the glow plug and put a few drops
of after run oil into the engine.</li></ul><p>Now that you know most of
the things that you need to learn when it comes to a nitro RC vehicle, you are
all set. Remember to do the maintenance tip after every run. Love your model
and it will let you have more fun in driving! Well, enjoy and it better make some
smoke and noise.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are you the type of person who loves
smoke and noise?&nbsp;</p><p>Do you have a passion for extremely fast cars?&nbsp;</p><p>Well, you might
just be obsessed with nitro RC vehicles and must feel a bit stumped especially
when you’re new to the nitro RC world. It’s not much of a fuss as long as you
follow the necessary precautions and avoid the most common mistakes beginners
make. Check out the following tips on starting a nitro powered engine.</p><ul><li>Avoid pulling the pull
starter if the engine is flooded - Much like the pull start mechanism on a
lawnmower, a pull cord is attached to the nitro engine and you will have to
pull the T-handle attached to the starter cord assembly to spin the flywheel
and start the engine. But when the cord becomes difficult to pull, don’t force
it. This just means that the engine is flooded, and pulling it will just snap
the line. If this happens, remove the glow plug and turn the car upside down
then pull the starter twice to remove excess fuel. Remember not to pull the
pull start cord out more than 20 cm as this may bend the spring and/or snap the
cord.</li></ul><ul><li>Never restrain the wheels –
Always start the car with the wheels off the ground. Let the wheels spin freely
and make sure the brake is off, otherwise it will result to overheating and
will melt the nylon drive gears.</li></ul><ul><li>Ensure the brake is off
before starting the car – Try pushing the car forward and if it gives a bit of
resistance, chances are the brake is on. Make certain you turn off the brakes before starting the car. Failure to do so might cause the clutch to overheat
and will melt the nylon drive gears.</li></ul><ul><li>Don’t replace the nylon
gear with a metal gear – The nylon gear will provide a safety margin of 60
degrees since they melt at about 220 degrees Celsius while the aluminum clutch
bell will break at 280 degrees. Metal on metal also wears out very quickly when
not lubricated and lubricating gears often may wear it out even more as
lubricants attract too much dust and dirt. The lighter the car, the quicker it
is and metal gears are way heavier than nylon ones and it will most likely
impede the car’s ability to accelerate.</li></ul><p>You may be interested in
getting a nitro RC vehicle and you certainly want to know how it works first and
the basic setup involved in obtaining one. These following steps will help you
prepare, start and break-in your nitro engine.</p><ul><li>Charge glow igniter – This
is mainly the first thing you need to do once you open up your starter kit.
Without it, you will not be able to even start the car. After charging your igniter you should make sure the glow plug
igniter is not left on the glow plug too long else it will burn out.</li><li>Install radio batteries –
put 8 batteries into the transmitter and 4 into the receiver (nitro cars only)
and make sure for rechargeable ones that they are fully charged before
installing them. Once the batteries are in, first turn on the transmitter, then
the receiver. If you ever turn on the receiver on the car first, it won't have
a signal from the transmitter to follow, and may go out of control.</li><li>Fill the tank - Pour some
fuel into the starter kit's fuel bottle. Fill up the fuel tank with nitro, and
make sure all fuel lines are connected to their ports. Make sure you are using
proper high quality Hobby fuel with correct nitro percentage (20 – 30% nitro),
unless stated otherwise in the manual. One thing you have to remember is not to
bend the fuel lid right back. This will result to bent spring in the lid and
will not pressurize the fuel tank.</li><li>Install your air filter –
Some models may already have the air filter readily installed. If not, just
install yours onto the carburetor. It may come with a zip tie that you can use
to secure it to the engine.</li><li>Standing your antenna up -
Antennas are important in RC car setup. You will have to insert the wire first
through the antenna mount of the car, and then right through the tube and
finally the tube goes into the tube mount. But in case of longer wire, let the
line hang freely and don’t cut it.</li><li>Turning on your transmitter
first - Remember: transmitter always goes on first, and off last.</li><li>Check for proper operation
of servos – While engine is not running you can check if steering, throttle and
brake servos are working correctly with the use of the transmitter and
receiver. RC servos are used to provide actuation for various
mechanical systems such as the steering of a car. Ensure that the wheels of
your vehicle are off the ground so it can spin freely if you want to test how
the servos are operating. When you apply the throttle, it opens up the
carburetor and when the brakes are applied, the carb is closed almost all the
way, and the brakes are then engaged.</li><li>Checking the radio range -
Make it a habit to always test your range before you drive your car and ensure
you’re free from any radio interference particularly with the 27Mhz frequency that can be caused by power lines or 2-way radios that transmit on a similar frequency. To do
a range check you can walk 5 meters away from the car with the models aerial
fully extended and the transmitter aerial fully down. Turn on the radio system
and check that all servos are working correctly. Do not attempt to drive your
car if you notice any radio problems or interference and see to it that the
batteries are strong and fully charged.</li><li>Prime the engine with fuel
- This is simple, just put your finger over the exhaust port and pull the cord
a few times until you see the fuel go through the line and into the carburetor.
Once the fuel reaches the carb, stop or you will flood the engine. Cold engines
require more priming than hot engines.</li><li>Starting a nitro engine –
Don’t start your engine unless you have fully read and understood the
directions. Assuming you’ve gone over everything and now that the engine is
primed, it’s ready to run. Clip the igniter onto the glow plug and pull on the
cord. Make sure you do short, quick pull.</li><li>Keep the engine running –
The first time you start it, chances are it won’t stay running and you may not
be able to run it like you want to. You have to break it in and set the mixture
correctly to make the engine last longer. You can try turning the throttle trim
dial on the transmitter to keep the engine revved up. If the engine stalls, you
may have to adjust the idle and slightly raise it.</li><li>Proper engine break-in -
Before you start to run the car as much as you want, it is very important
(crucial, even) that you break in the engine. You may encounter stalling and
inconsistent runs but these are all normal until you get to break in the engine
and set the mixture. If you do it properly, it will help you achieve the
highest possible performance and reliability.</li><li>Break-in procedures -
Basically all you do is run the car at low speeds for a few tanks of gas. Keep
in mind that the wheels should be off the ground and the brake must be off.
Simply idle 3 tanks of fuel, allowing the engine to cool down between tanks.
Remember to always check your car for loose nuts and bolts. After the first
run, go over your car and make sure all the screws are tight, especially the
engine bolts. You can try using a Locktite (like a soft glue) to help keep the
nuts and bolts in place, since they tend to come loose due to vibration. After
the third tank, check the gap between the metal clutch gear and the nylon drive
gear. There should just be a really small gap that could allow 2 pieces of thin
paper between the 2 gears. If the gap is bigger than what’s necessary, you may
adjust by undoing the screws and sliding the engine closer. For your succeeding
tanks, you can gradually increase how hard you run the engine. Soon enough you
can do it however you want.</li><li>Break-in mixture settings –
Most engines are pre-set with the default mixture settings from the factory.
This should be good unless you would need to adjust the setting for different
conditions. When you need to change the mixture settings, record the factory
settings. Count and record the turns so you can wind them back to default.</li><li>Running the first tanks in
the car – You may have broken in your engine at this point and hopefully you
did it correctly using this guide. Try a smooth surface first on your first run
and check the steering trim to make sure it’s properly adjusted.</li><li>Engine tuning - When it
comes to RC vehicles, tuning is essential in order to achieve more speed or
power. The overall performance of the engine greatly depends on how you tune
the mixture. We have the rich and lean setting; both terms are used to describe
the amount of fuel entering the carburetor. Lean means less fuel while rich
means more. If you want to have a leaner setting, turn the carburetor needles
clockwise, while counter-clockwise would help you achieve a richer setting.
Make sure you’re not running too lean as this may damage your engine. Engine
life should be operating around temperatures 104-115 degrees Celsius or 220-240
degrees Fahrenheit.</li><li> Fine tuning – This
would mean adjusting slowly the low-speed mixture and idle screw. Note that if
the engine splutters, it is too rich and when it tries to cut out, it has a
lean setting. You would have to listen to the way the engine revs from idle to
determine your current setting.</li><li>Installing the body clips -
Putting on body clips on an RC car is easy. You just have to align the holes in
the body with the body mounts. Then clip the pins on through the holes and you
can pretty much adjust the height of the body by lowering the clips.</li><li>How to stop the engine –
You can stop the engine by either blocking the air using your fingers or squeezing
the fuel line to the carb.</li><li>After run maintenance -
Make sure the fuel tank is empty. You can attempt to run the engine until all
the extra fuel is burned up. Lastly, remove the glow plug and put a few drops
of after run oil into the engine.</li></ul><p>Now that you know most of
the things that you need to learn when it comes to a nitro RC vehicle, you are
all set. Remember to do the maintenance tip after every run. Love your model
and it will let you have more fun in driving! Well, enjoy and it better make some
smoke and noise.</p>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[RC Car Batteries]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/rc-car-batteries/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 15 Jan 2013 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/rc-car-batteries/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>In
the RC industry, fuel and batteries play a significant role in running the RC
technology. We know how important batteries are, whether electric or nitro you
would simply need batteries or battery packs for the electric unit and its
controller. Traditionally, RC cars have been powered by Nimh battery packs. But
recent technological advancements paved the way to the evolution of more
efficient cells. This would be the read you need in choosing the best batteries
for your RC models.</p><p>Batteries
for electric rc can come in alkaline or rechargeable type. Alkaline batteries have a common downside when it comes to power output.&nbsp;</p><p>The various types of rechargeable
batteries are:</p><ul>
<li>Nickel-cadmium (Nicd)</li><li>Nickel-metal-hydride (Nimh)</li><li>Lithium-ion (Li-ion)</li><li>Lithium-polymer (Lipo)<p>These
options are essentially practical and economical. All you need is a charger and
it saves you from buying new set of alkaline batteries when they wear out. If
you’re eyeing for longer runtime, you may want a bigger Mah rating but this
will generally cost more.</p><p>A
standard 7.2v RC electric car battery pack measures at 130mm x 45mm. The Mah
indicates the capacity of the battery. So, the greater the Mah, the longer it
will last. Majority of RC cars come with a battery that has 7.2 volts and a
capacity of 1800 MaH or greater. The regular rechargeable battery pack
typically provides approx 10 minutes of drive time at full speed between charges.</p><p>Be
careful in using batteries with seemingly higher voltage. Make sure to check
first with the manufacturer if the motor and ESC can handle the extra power.</p><p>Now,
how do you opt for the best batteries? Here’s a detailed drill to find the best
deal.</p><p>Voltage
and cell counts differ amongst the Lithium batteries and NiCd and NiMh. Unlike
conventional NiCad or NiMH battery cells that have a voltage of 1.2 volts per
cell, Lithium battery cells are rated at 3.7 volts per cell.</p><p>Lithium
batteries have been a hot ticket in the RC world since it was introduced.
Lithium-ion and Lithium-polymer may be similar in voltage counts but distinct
in other ways. Li-ion batteries have high energy-densities and cost less than
Lipo cells. More so, they do not require priming when first used and have a low
self-discharge. However, Li-ion batteries do suffer from aging even when not in
use. The chemical construction of this battery limits it to a rectangular
shape. It’s lighter than nickel-based secondary batteries (Ni-Cd and NiMH) and
generally twice its capacity.</p><p>Lipo
batteries are very lightweight with its very thin designs but still holding
relatively good battery life. This is the latest upgrade to battery technology.
It also provides a very direct output however, these batteries will cost more
to manufacture and have a not so good energy density than Li-ion batteries.</p><p>When
it comes to charging and discharging, each type exhibits a different action.
Lithium batteries are fully charged when each cell has a voltage of 4.2 volts.
They are discharged completely at 3.0 volts on each cell. It is vital that you
do not exceed both the high and low voltage limits as this may damage the
battery.</p><p>Charging
cells is the most risky part of using Lithium batteries. Since it is highly
explosive due to the volatile electrolyte used in Lipo, they can easily catch
fire. It is important to set your charger to the correct voltage or cell count
to avoid any untoward incidents and make sure you don’t leave them unattended.</p><p>Discharge
rate is simply how fast the battery can be discharged safely. In the RC LiPo
battery world it is called the “C” rating. A battery with a discharge rating of
1 C would mean you could safely discharge it in 1 hour and 2 C would discharge
it in half an hour. All batteries holding capacities are rated in milli Amp
hours (Mah) so any insight and knowledge about the concept of Watts, Volts and
Amps will be greatly convenient.</p><p>Battery
technology is a very active field of study. We are constantly looking for a
much improved cell that can store more energy and recharge faster. I believe
there will be innovations of this sort soon but for now try to evaluate the
pros and cons to help you assess the best battery that will work for your
beloved RC vehicle.</p></li></ul>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In
the RC industry, fuel and batteries play a significant role in running the RC
technology. We know how important batteries are, whether electric or nitro you
would simply need batteries or battery packs for the electric unit and its
controller. Traditionally, RC cars have been powered by Nimh battery packs. But
recent technological advancements paved the way to the evolution of more
efficient cells. This would be the read you need in choosing the best batteries
for your RC models.</p><p>Batteries
for electric rc can come in alkaline or rechargeable type. Alkaline batteries have a common downside when it comes to power output.&nbsp;</p><p>The various types of rechargeable
batteries are:</p><ul>
<li>Nickel-cadmium (Nicd)</li><li>Nickel-metal-hydride (Nimh)</li><li>Lithium-ion (Li-ion)</li><li>Lithium-polymer (Lipo)<p>These
options are essentially practical and economical. All you need is a charger and
it saves you from buying new set of alkaline batteries when they wear out. If
you’re eyeing for longer runtime, you may want a bigger Mah rating but this
will generally cost more.</p><p>A
standard 7.2v RC electric car battery pack measures at 130mm x 45mm. The Mah
indicates the capacity of the battery. So, the greater the Mah, the longer it
will last. Majority of RC cars come with a battery that has 7.2 volts and a
capacity of 1800 MaH or greater. The regular rechargeable battery pack
typically provides approx 10 minutes of drive time at full speed between charges.</p><p>Be
careful in using batteries with seemingly higher voltage. Make sure to check
first with the manufacturer if the motor and ESC can handle the extra power.</p><p>Now,
how do you opt for the best batteries? Here’s a detailed drill to find the best
deal.</p><p>Voltage
and cell counts differ amongst the Lithium batteries and NiCd and NiMh. Unlike
conventional NiCad or NiMH battery cells that have a voltage of 1.2 volts per
cell, Lithium battery cells are rated at 3.7 volts per cell.</p><p>Lithium
batteries have been a hot ticket in the RC world since it was introduced.
Lithium-ion and Lithium-polymer may be similar in voltage counts but distinct
in other ways. Li-ion batteries have high energy-densities and cost less than
Lipo cells. More so, they do not require priming when first used and have a low
self-discharge. However, Li-ion batteries do suffer from aging even when not in
use. The chemical construction of this battery limits it to a rectangular
shape. It’s lighter than nickel-based secondary batteries (Ni-Cd and NiMH) and
generally twice its capacity.</p><p>Lipo
batteries are very lightweight with its very thin designs but still holding
relatively good battery life. This is the latest upgrade to battery technology.
It also provides a very direct output however, these batteries will cost more
to manufacture and have a not so good energy density than Li-ion batteries.</p><p>When
it comes to charging and discharging, each type exhibits a different action.
Lithium batteries are fully charged when each cell has a voltage of 4.2 volts.
They are discharged completely at 3.0 volts on each cell. It is vital that you
do not exceed both the high and low voltage limits as this may damage the
battery.</p><p>Charging
cells is the most risky part of using Lithium batteries. Since it is highly
explosive due to the volatile electrolyte used in Lipo, they can easily catch
fire. It is important to set your charger to the correct voltage or cell count
to avoid any untoward incidents and make sure you don’t leave them unattended.</p><p>Discharge
rate is simply how fast the battery can be discharged safely. In the RC LiPo
battery world it is called the “C” rating. A battery with a discharge rating of
1 C would mean you could safely discharge it in 1 hour and 2 C would discharge
it in half an hour. All batteries holding capacities are rated in milli Amp
hours (Mah) so any insight and knowledge about the concept of Watts, Volts and
Amps will be greatly convenient.</p><p>Battery
technology is a very active field of study. We are constantly looking for a
much improved cell that can store more energy and recharge faster. I believe
there will be innovations of this sort soon but for now try to evaluate the
pros and cons to help you assess the best battery that will work for your
beloved RC vehicle.</p></li></ul>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Electric RC Car batteries]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/electric-rc-car-batteries/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 14 Jan 2013 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/electric-rc-car-batteries/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>We know how important
batteries are in the RC industry. Whether you’ve just quickly developed a
passion for the hobby or you’re already a regular racer you would simply
understand that electric RC cars rely on batteries or battery packs. With
electric RCs the runtime is dependent both on how long the battery lasts and
how long it takes to recharge the battery pack, which means if your battery is
running low you will be coming in dead last, and that just cuts the fun of
driving outright.</p><p>There are various types of
battery for electric RC. The rechargeable ones are nickel-cadmium (NiCd),
nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH), lithium-ion (Li-ion) and lithium-polymer (LiPO).
Alkaline type of batteries is also ok since they last longer, but the downside
would be the very low power output which can make the car move and respond
slow. NiCd and NiMh are commonly used because they’re practical and economical.
You just need a charger and won’t have to buy new set of alkaline batteries
when they wear out.</p><p>A standard 7.2v RC electric
car battery pack measures at 130mm x 45mm. The MaH indicates the capacity of
the battery. The greater the MaH, the longer it will last and the greater the
capacity, the more it costs. You need to determine what you like most. Battery
runtime can be affected by factors like how it is driven and the surface it is
driven on and pretty much the power the engine uses.</p><p>Most electric RC cars are
designed to last for at least 5 minutes, as much as the international standard
for electric car racing goes. Majority of RC cars come with a battery that has
7.2 volts and a capacity of 1800 MaH or greater.</p><p>When it comes to charging
the battery, this may vary greatly depending on a lot of factors. Just make
sure you don’t cause damage to your batteries by overcharging them. When the
battery is dead flat you can use this equation to determine how long you would
need your batteries plugged in otherwise, just charge them until they start
getting warm (not hot).</p><p>Battery capacity (battery’s
mAh rating) / charger output x 1.3 (for losses in charging around 30%) = Number
of hours</p><p>In essence, if you have a
1000mah battery and a charger which outputs at 100mA you would need to charge
it for 13 hours. (1000 / 100 =10 x 1.3)</p><p>If you’re looking to use a
higher voltage, make sure you check with the manufacturer to see if the ESC and
motor can handle a higher voltage.</p><p>Let’s take a closer look
into the four different types of rechargeable batteries. Voltage and cell
counts differ amongst the Lithium batteries and NiCd and NiMh. Unlike
conventional NiCad or NiMH battery cells that have a voltage of 1.2 volts per
cell, Lithium battery cells are rated at 3.7 volts per cell. When charging and
discharging, each type exhibits a different action. Lithium batteries are fully
charged when each cell has a voltage of 4.2 volts. They are discharged
completely at 3.0 volts on each cell. It is vital that you do not exceed both
the high and low voltage limits as this may damage the battery.</p><p>LiPo is the latest upgrade
to battery technology; they give a very linear power output. When the voltage
drops, there is a sudden drop in power and you will need to stop using the
engine. Lithium batteries have taken the electric RC world by storm. They are
mainly lightweight, have large capacities, and have high discharge rates to
power the most demanding electric motors. But these benefits also have some
drawbacks, especially with charging and discharging. Lithium cells must be
charged differently from NiCd and Ni Mh. Charging cells is the most risky part
of using Lithium batteries. Because of the volatile electrolyte used in LiPo’s,
they can catch fire or explode. It is important to set your charger to the
correct voltage or cell count to avoid danger. You have to exercise extreme
caution and should follow safety measure. RC LiPo batteries require unique and
proper care if you want them to last for long. Charging, discharging, and
storage all affect the lifespan – get it wrong and it becomes garbage.</p><p>Never charge the batteries
unattended. Use a safe surface to charge your batteries on that in the event of
explosion, no damage will happen. You can use plant pots with soil in them,
vented fire safes, LiPo Sacks, etc. If a cell swells, especially when you’re
charging it, place it in a fire safe place and do not try to deflate or
puncture it.</p><p>Discharge rate is simply
how fast the battery can be discharged safely. In the RC LiPo battery world it
is called the “C” rating. A battery with a discharge rating of 1 C would mean
you could safely discharge it in 1 hour and 2 C would discharge it in half an
hour. All batteries holding capacities are rated in milli Amp hours (mAh) so it
is quite useful if you understand the concept of Watts, Volts and Amps.</p><p>Taking a temperature
reading of your packs after running them is another good way to gauge if you're
using a high enough c rating, in this case a handheld Infrared Temperature
Gauge might come in handy. For optimum battery life, try to keep your cells
from reaching 70 degrees Celsius after use and keep it away from cold,
especially during winter. For battery connectors, the white plug (Tamiya plug)
and the red (Deans) plug are used more often. Now, here’s a simple advice you
may want to try, cut the Tamiya plug off and solder the Deans plug on and that
should set it.</p><p>RC battery chargers are one
of the single most important items you need to purchase when getting into the
electric-powered RC world. There are tons of chargers available in the market,
however to simplify everything here’s the 3 most popular type there is:</p><ul>
<li>Slow Charger – cheaper and
normally outputs around 150 mAh and takes longer hours to charge. It doesn’t
auto turn off even when the battery’s fully charged.</li><li>Fast Charger – outputs up
to 5 amps and takes lesser time to charge. Example, a 2000 mAh battery will
take about 30 minutes to charge. It also automatically shuts off when the cells
are fully charged.</li><li>Field Charger – are more
convenient since you can charge anytime wherever you are. You simply have to
clip the alligator clamps to any 12 volt battery to charge.</li></ul><p>For Lithium batteries, you
may need a totally different kind of charger. There may be new chargers that
already support Lithium cells, but you still have to emphasize and indicate
that you’re using Lithium batteries. So keep an eye out for which battery would
work best for you. Weigh and consider their benefits and disadvantages to help
you with your choice.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We know how important
batteries are in the RC industry. Whether you’ve just quickly developed a
passion for the hobby or you’re already a regular racer you would simply
understand that electric RC cars rely on batteries or battery packs. With
electric RCs the runtime is dependent both on how long the battery lasts and
how long it takes to recharge the battery pack, which means if your battery is
running low you will be coming in dead last, and that just cuts the fun of
driving outright.</p><p>There are various types of
battery for electric RC. The rechargeable ones are nickel-cadmium (NiCd),
nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH), lithium-ion (Li-ion) and lithium-polymer (LiPO).
Alkaline type of batteries is also ok since they last longer, but the downside
would be the very low power output which can make the car move and respond
slow. NiCd and NiMh are commonly used because they’re practical and economical.
You just need a charger and won’t have to buy new set of alkaline batteries
when they wear out.</p><p>A standard 7.2v RC electric
car battery pack measures at 130mm x 45mm. The MaH indicates the capacity of
the battery. The greater the MaH, the longer it will last and the greater the
capacity, the more it costs. You need to determine what you like most. Battery
runtime can be affected by factors like how it is driven and the surface it is
driven on and pretty much the power the engine uses.</p><p>Most electric RC cars are
designed to last for at least 5 minutes, as much as the international standard
for electric car racing goes. Majority of RC cars come with a battery that has
7.2 volts and a capacity of 1800 MaH or greater.</p><p>When it comes to charging
the battery, this may vary greatly depending on a lot of factors. Just make
sure you don’t cause damage to your batteries by overcharging them. When the
battery is dead flat you can use this equation to determine how long you would
need your batteries plugged in otherwise, just charge them until they start
getting warm (not hot).</p><p>Battery capacity (battery’s
mAh rating) / charger output x 1.3 (for losses in charging around 30%) = Number
of hours</p><p>In essence, if you have a
1000mah battery and a charger which outputs at 100mA you would need to charge
it for 13 hours. (1000 / 100 =10 x 1.3)</p><p>If you’re looking to use a
higher voltage, make sure you check with the manufacturer to see if the ESC and
motor can handle a higher voltage.</p><p>Let’s take a closer look
into the four different types of rechargeable batteries. Voltage and cell
counts differ amongst the Lithium batteries and NiCd and NiMh. Unlike
conventional NiCad or NiMH battery cells that have a voltage of 1.2 volts per
cell, Lithium battery cells are rated at 3.7 volts per cell. When charging and
discharging, each type exhibits a different action. Lithium batteries are fully
charged when each cell has a voltage of 4.2 volts. They are discharged
completely at 3.0 volts on each cell. It is vital that you do not exceed both
the high and low voltage limits as this may damage the battery.</p><p>LiPo is the latest upgrade
to battery technology; they give a very linear power output. When the voltage
drops, there is a sudden drop in power and you will need to stop using the
engine. Lithium batteries have taken the electric RC world by storm. They are
mainly lightweight, have large capacities, and have high discharge rates to
power the most demanding electric motors. But these benefits also have some
drawbacks, especially with charging and discharging. Lithium cells must be
charged differently from NiCd and Ni Mh. Charging cells is the most risky part
of using Lithium batteries. Because of the volatile electrolyte used in LiPo’s,
they can catch fire or explode. It is important to set your charger to the
correct voltage or cell count to avoid danger. You have to exercise extreme
caution and should follow safety measure. RC LiPo batteries require unique and
proper care if you want them to last for long. Charging, discharging, and
storage all affect the lifespan – get it wrong and it becomes garbage.</p><p>Never charge the batteries
unattended. Use a safe surface to charge your batteries on that in the event of
explosion, no damage will happen. You can use plant pots with soil in them,
vented fire safes, LiPo Sacks, etc. If a cell swells, especially when you’re
charging it, place it in a fire safe place and do not try to deflate or
puncture it.</p><p>Discharge rate is simply
how fast the battery can be discharged safely. In the RC LiPo battery world it
is called the “C” rating. A battery with a discharge rating of 1 C would mean
you could safely discharge it in 1 hour and 2 C would discharge it in half an
hour. All batteries holding capacities are rated in milli Amp hours (mAh) so it
is quite useful if you understand the concept of Watts, Volts and Amps.</p><p>Taking a temperature
reading of your packs after running them is another good way to gauge if you're
using a high enough c rating, in this case a handheld Infrared Temperature
Gauge might come in handy. For optimum battery life, try to keep your cells
from reaching 70 degrees Celsius after use and keep it away from cold,
especially during winter. For battery connectors, the white plug (Tamiya plug)
and the red (Deans) plug are used more often. Now, here’s a simple advice you
may want to try, cut the Tamiya plug off and solder the Deans plug on and that
should set it.</p><p>RC battery chargers are one
of the single most important items you need to purchase when getting into the
electric-powered RC world. There are tons of chargers available in the market,
however to simplify everything here’s the 3 most popular type there is:</p><ul>
<li>Slow Charger – cheaper and
normally outputs around 150 mAh and takes longer hours to charge. It doesn’t
auto turn off even when the battery’s fully charged.</li><li>Fast Charger – outputs up
to 5 amps and takes lesser time to charge. Example, a 2000 mAh battery will
take about 30 minutes to charge. It also automatically shuts off when the cells
are fully charged.</li><li>Field Charger – are more
convenient since you can charge anytime wherever you are. You simply have to
clip the alligator clamps to any 12 volt battery to charge.</li></ul><p>For Lithium batteries, you
may need a totally different kind of charger. There may be new chargers that
already support Lithium cells, but you still have to emphasize and indicate
that you’re using Lithium batteries. So keep an eye out for which battery would
work best for you. Weigh and consider their benefits and disadvantages to help
you with your choice.</p>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT ELECTRIC RC CARS]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/what-to-know-about-electric-rc-cars/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jan 2013 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/what-to-know-about-electric-rc-cars/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>New
to the world of RC vehicles? Don’t fret. We know there are a lot of factors you
should look into and here you will learn everything you need to know about
electric RC cars. To start off, make it a habit to go over your car regularly.
Always check the nuts and bolts for tightness (especially the engine bolts) so
as to make sure you don’t commit the same mistakes most beginners do.</p><p>RC
sport can be intimidating for a beginner. It’s a challenge to know where and
how to start with so many new terms, options and parts. Well, here’s an instruction
on some of the basic things you need to know before you go backyard bashing or
racing:</p><p>1.Charge your battery – Charging time varies with the type of charger you may be using.</p><p>Most
cars come with a battery and when it comes to charging, they may vary greatly
depending on a lot of factors. Just make sure you don’t cause damage to your
batteries by overcharging them. When the battery is dead flat you can use this
equation to determine how long you would need your batteries plugged in,
otherwise just charge them until they start getting warm.</p><p>Battery
capacity (battery’s mAh rating) / charger output x 1.3 (for losses in charging
around 30%) = Number of hours</p><p>In
essence, if you have a 1000mah battery and a charger which outputs at 100mA you
would need to charge it for 13 hours. (1000 / 100 =10 x 1.3)</p><p>1.Install 8 x AA batteries in
the transmitter - Transmitters are used mostly with NiMh or NiCad batteries and
you need to have 8 x AA batteries installed and remember to charge them
completely before installation. Keep in mind that the transmitter should be
always switched on first and turned off last.</p><p>1.Standing Your Antenna Up –
Antennas are important in RC car setup. You will have to insert the wire first
through the antenna mount of the car, and then right through the tube and
finally the tube goes into the tube mount. But in case of longer wire, let the
line hang freely and don’t cut it.</p><p>1.Check for Proper Operation of
Servos – RC servos are used to provide actuation for various
mechanical systems such as the steering of a car. Ensure that the wheels of
your vehicle are off the ground so it can spin freely if you want to test how
the servos are operating. Then, check if your steering, throttle and forward or
reverse are working properly. When the servo is commanded to rotate or to
perform a certain action, the motor is powered until it reaches the value
corresponding to the commanded position. These are usually free to move both
up/down and left/right, like the joysticks on a play station controller.</p><p>1.Range Check – Todays radios mostly run on a 2.4Ghz frequency which limits interference but with 27Mhz radios make it a habit
to always test your range before you drive your car and ensure you’re free from
any radio interference that can be caused by power lines, police or other 2-way
radio models that transmit on a similar frequency. To do a range check you can
walk 5 meters away from the car with the models aerial fully extended and the
transmitter aerial fully down. Turn on the radio system and check that all
servos are working correctly. Check all the linkages to make sure they are not
binding. Always make sure the batteries in both your car and your radio are
strong or fully charged. Attempting to run your car with weak batteries will
make it unresponsive to controls and commands.</p><p>1.Break-in Procedures – When it
comes to RC vehicles, tuning is essential in order to achieve more speed or
power. Moreover, it should come along side with proper break in to yield the
best performance. To break-in, just run the motor with the wheels off the
ground and try to run 3 battery packs allowing the engine to completely cool
down between each battery. Remember to always check your car for loose nuts and
bolts. After the first run, go over your car and make sure all the screws are
tight, especially the engine bolts. You can try using a Loctite to help keep the nuts and bolts in place, since they may tend to come
loose due to vibration. After the third battery, check the gap between the
brass engine pinion and the nylon drive gear. There should just be a really
small gap that could allow 2 pieces of thin paper between the 2 gears. If the
gap is bigger than what’s necessary, you may adjust it by undoing the screws
and sliding the engine closer. Breaking-in your engine properly will help
produce less heat and reduce premature wear and tear.</p><p>1.Installing the Body Clips –
Putting on body clips on an RC car is easy. You just have to align the holes in
the body with the body mounts. Then clip the pins on through the holes and you
can pretty much adjust the height of the body by lowering the clips.</p><p>Well
done! Now, you’re ready to run your car. I know you can’t wait to drive your
vehicle, and seems like you’re all set to go but just remember to have fun and
drive safely by noting all the necessary precautions. You’ll be far more
competitive and in turn, have more fun if your car is set right and in the
perfect condition. After all, you don’t want to end up damaging your vehicle by
overlooking the must-know details.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>New
to the world of RC vehicles? Don’t fret. We know there are a lot of factors you
should look into and here you will learn everything you need to know about
electric RC cars. To start off, make it a habit to go over your car regularly.
Always check the nuts and bolts for tightness (especially the engine bolts) so
as to make sure you don’t commit the same mistakes most beginners do.</p><p>RC
sport can be intimidating for a beginner. It’s a challenge to know where and
how to start with so many new terms, options and parts. Well, here’s an instruction
on some of the basic things you need to know before you go backyard bashing or
racing:</p><p>1.Charge your battery – Charging time varies with the type of charger you may be using.</p><p>Most
cars come with a battery and when it comes to charging, they may vary greatly
depending on a lot of factors. Just make sure you don’t cause damage to your
batteries by overcharging them. When the battery is dead flat you can use this
equation to determine how long you would need your batteries plugged in,
otherwise just charge them until they start getting warm.</p><p>Battery
capacity (battery’s mAh rating) / charger output x 1.3 (for losses in charging
around 30%) = Number of hours</p><p>In
essence, if you have a 1000mah battery and a charger which outputs at 100mA you
would need to charge it for 13 hours. (1000 / 100 =10 x 1.3)</p><p>1.Install 8 x AA batteries in
the transmitter - Transmitters are used mostly with NiMh or NiCad batteries and
you need to have 8 x AA batteries installed and remember to charge them
completely before installation. Keep in mind that the transmitter should be
always switched on first and turned off last.</p><p>1.Standing Your Antenna Up –
Antennas are important in RC car setup. You will have to insert the wire first
through the antenna mount of the car, and then right through the tube and
finally the tube goes into the tube mount. But in case of longer wire, let the
line hang freely and don’t cut it.</p><p>1.Check for Proper Operation of
Servos – RC servos are used to provide actuation for various
mechanical systems such as the steering of a car. Ensure that the wheels of
your vehicle are off the ground so it can spin freely if you want to test how
the servos are operating. Then, check if your steering, throttle and forward or
reverse are working properly. When the servo is commanded to rotate or to
perform a certain action, the motor is powered until it reaches the value
corresponding to the commanded position. These are usually free to move both
up/down and left/right, like the joysticks on a play station controller.</p><p>1.Range Check – Todays radios mostly run on a 2.4Ghz frequency which limits interference but with 27Mhz radios make it a habit
to always test your range before you drive your car and ensure you’re free from
any radio interference that can be caused by power lines, police or other 2-way
radio models that transmit on a similar frequency. To do a range check you can
walk 5 meters away from the car with the models aerial fully extended and the
transmitter aerial fully down. Turn on the radio system and check that all
servos are working correctly. Check all the linkages to make sure they are not
binding. Always make sure the batteries in both your car and your radio are
strong or fully charged. Attempting to run your car with weak batteries will
make it unresponsive to controls and commands.</p><p>1.Break-in Procedures – When it
comes to RC vehicles, tuning is essential in order to achieve more speed or
power. Moreover, it should come along side with proper break in to yield the
best performance. To break-in, just run the motor with the wheels off the
ground and try to run 3 battery packs allowing the engine to completely cool
down between each battery. Remember to always check your car for loose nuts and
bolts. After the first run, go over your car and make sure all the screws are
tight, especially the engine bolts. You can try using a Loctite to help keep the nuts and bolts in place, since they may tend to come
loose due to vibration. After the third battery, check the gap between the
brass engine pinion and the nylon drive gear. There should just be a really
small gap that could allow 2 pieces of thin paper between the 2 gears. If the
gap is bigger than what’s necessary, you may adjust it by undoing the screws
and sliding the engine closer. Breaking-in your engine properly will help
produce less heat and reduce premature wear and tear.</p><p>1.Installing the Body Clips –
Putting on body clips on an RC car is easy. You just have to align the holes in
the body with the body mounts. Then clip the pins on through the holes and you
can pretty much adjust the height of the body by lowering the clips.</p><p>Well
done! Now, you’re ready to run your car. I know you can’t wait to drive your
vehicle, and seems like you’re all set to go but just remember to have fun and
drive safely by noting all the necessary precautions. You’ll be far more
competitive and in turn, have more fun if your car is set right and in the
perfect condition. After all, you don’t want to end up damaging your vehicle by
overlooking the must-know details.</p>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ELECTRIC RC CARS]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/electric-rc-cars/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 19 Dec 2012 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/electric-rc-cars/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>When
you hear the words remote control cars, the first thing that will come to mind
might be a toy-grade RC vehicle for kids. The ones that you can possibly buy
for less than $100 and won’t really survive backyard bashing or track racing.
Well, here we will talk about the hobby-grade kind of RC models. The kinds that
would generally last provided with the proper care and maintenance. These RC
cars have a goal of achieving realistic driving conditions. I’d say typically,
the toys for the big boys. We will help you find the best electric RC cars and
will let you get into the most common variety that will suit your personality
perfectly.</p><p>Each
car has unique features and different RC cars are built for different surfaces.
If you own a licensed-design sports car with low clearance, you'll want to
focus on smooth, solid surface.</p><p>On
road models have racing tires and are built for high speeds for on road racing.
Their tires are smooth, and they are usually faster than the off-road types.
They are only good for flat surfaces, though, such as smooth roads or race
tracks. While off-road models like a buggy or a truck are essentially built for
rough surfaces and could endure coarse and bumpy tracks.</p><p>You
just bought a new RC car and chances are you have already taken it out for a
test run or two. Before you go ahead and show it off to your friends, make sure
you don’t commit the most common mistake beginners usually do. So, always see
to it that you habitually check the nuts and bolts for tightness before you
start driving your vehicle.</p><p>Prep
your car before running by following these steps:</p><ul>
<li>Charge your battery; make sure
you’ll have fun driving by not overlooking the obvious. Your main battery must
be fully charged to give you a satisfying runtime. And you should put in 8 x AA
cells in your transmitters.</li><li>Mount the antenna on your car
- this is important in RC car setup.</li><li>Check if your servos are
operating properly. This will provide better steering and will confirm how
responsive your vehicle is to each command. However, always remember to test it
with the wheels off the ground.</li><li>Make it a habit to test your
range and check for any radio interference before driving.</li><li>Breaking-in your engine
properly will help produce less heat and reduce premature wear and tear. Ensure
you follow the right procedure.</li><li>The last thing to do is to
hold the exterior part of the car together by installing body clips. These
clips can be easily pinned on through the holes to secure it.<p>Whether
it’s a street, buggy or truck RC model that you like, the best electric RC car
would still depend on your taste. But you may also want to consider factors
such as cost, level of expertise, and time available for learning and
maintenance to make sure after all the cash you spent you can always keep the
hobby fresh.</p></li></ul>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When
you hear the words remote control cars, the first thing that will come to mind
might be a toy-grade RC vehicle for kids. The ones that you can possibly buy
for less than $100 and won’t really survive backyard bashing or track racing.
Well, here we will talk about the hobby-grade kind of RC models. The kinds that
would generally last provided with the proper care and maintenance. These RC
cars have a goal of achieving realistic driving conditions. I’d say typically,
the toys for the big boys. We will help you find the best electric RC cars and
will let you get into the most common variety that will suit your personality
perfectly.</p><p>Each
car has unique features and different RC cars are built for different surfaces.
If you own a licensed-design sports car with low clearance, you'll want to
focus on smooth, solid surface.</p><p>On
road models have racing tires and are built for high speeds for on road racing.
Their tires are smooth, and they are usually faster than the off-road types.
They are only good for flat surfaces, though, such as smooth roads or race
tracks. While off-road models like a buggy or a truck are essentially built for
rough surfaces and could endure coarse and bumpy tracks.</p><p>You
just bought a new RC car and chances are you have already taken it out for a
test run or two. Before you go ahead and show it off to your friends, make sure
you don’t commit the most common mistake beginners usually do. So, always see
to it that you habitually check the nuts and bolts for tightness before you
start driving your vehicle.</p><p>Prep
your car before running by following these steps:</p><ul>
<li>Charge your battery; make sure
you’ll have fun driving by not overlooking the obvious. Your main battery must
be fully charged to give you a satisfying runtime. And you should put in 8 x AA
cells in your transmitters.</li><li>Mount the antenna on your car
- this is important in RC car setup.</li><li>Check if your servos are
operating properly. This will provide better steering and will confirm how
responsive your vehicle is to each command. However, always remember to test it
with the wheels off the ground.</li><li>Make it a habit to test your
range and check for any radio interference before driving.</li><li>Breaking-in your engine
properly will help produce less heat and reduce premature wear and tear. Ensure
you follow the right procedure.</li><li>The last thing to do is to
hold the exterior part of the car together by installing body clips. These
clips can be easily pinned on through the holes to secure it.<p>Whether
it’s a street, buggy or truck RC model that you like, the best electric RC car
would still depend on your taste. But you may also want to consider factors
such as cost, level of expertise, and time available for learning and
maintenance to make sure after all the cash you spent you can always keep the
hobby fresh.</p></li></ul>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Remote Control (RC) Cars]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/remote-control-rc-cars/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 18 Dec 2012 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/remote-control-rc-cars/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Remote Control Cars have
definitely come a long way since the 60s when functional radio control units
were introduced. From being sold as kits with hundreds of parts to be assembled
in years past to many Ready to Run units available today, the options RC hobbyists
currently have is abundant. Since there are different types of RC Cars being
sold in Australia, one major consideration is selecting which type of RC Car do
you go for—Petrol, Nitro or Electric?&nbsp;</p><p>Read on to find out...</p><h2>Petrol Remote Control Cars</h2><p><br>
Petrol Remote Control Cars are model cars powered by miniature petrol-fed
engines. These Remote Controlled Cars that run on petrol typically require more
tinkering and fine-tuning to get the best performance and are not as easy to
set up as electric models. There’s also a bit of a learning curve you have to
get through. But once you’ve gotten past through that, these cars using remote
control easily provide great fun and satisfaction with their superb
performance.<br>
<br>
Advantages of these RC Cars:<br>
•   High power and speed<br>
•   Fast and easy refuelling<br>
•   Runs smooth for a longer period of time</p><h2>Nitro Remote Control Cars</h2><p><br>
Nitro RC Cars, like models running on petrol, also carry a miniature engine.
But this time, these RC's use Nitro Fuel or Glow Fuel. Generally, it is a mixture
of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This type of RC Car is popular because it
combines power, performance, speed and durability in one machine. Like
petrol-powered vehicles, there’s also a bit of learning curve when you’re new
to this.</p><p><br>
Cars on Glow Fuel have these Advantages:<br>
•   Runs longer because of fast refuelling<br>
•   Options for high powered engines<br>
•   The noise and smoke from these cars add realism</p><h2>Electric Remote Control Cars</h2><p><br>
Electric RC Cars are great for beginners because they are easier to use and
maintain. Instead of using miniature fuel engines to power them, they use
batteries. Newer high-capacity batteries on brushless motors can produce
vehicles that can match some Nitro-powered RC cars in speed and performance.
 <br>
<br>
Advantages of RC Cars running on battery packs:<br>
•   Easy to use and maintain<br>
•   Can be used indoors<br>
•   Runs quietly compared to fuel-based RC Cars</p><h2>Remote Control Cars for Kids</h2><p><br>
Remote Control Cars are great for kids as they are fun and educational. Instead
of staying indoors, kids now have a reason to have fun outdoors while getting
exposed to the science part of the cars—how the mechanical parts work together,
how these cars are controlled wirelessly and so on. There are many shops and
online stores in Australia that sell Remote Control Cars for kids. These Remote
Controlled Cars come in different models, colors and sizes. It is easy to
choose which ones are right for our kids since manufacturers of RC Cars have
already put information in the packaging indicating recommended age limits and
warning labels that indicate if the cars have tiny parts that could potentially
cause choking or other dangers for kids.  </p><p>RC Cars make a great gift
for kids. Why?<br>
<br>
•   It encourages them to go outdoors to play their Remote
Controlled Cars<br>
•   It is safe to operate<br>
•   It is educational; Kids learn about gears and other
mechanical parts, batteries and a lot more<br>
•   It offers a chance for parent and child to play together if the parent is also a RC hobbyist</p><h2>Remote Control Cars for Adults</h2><p><br>
Think your husband or your dad is too old for toys? Wrong. Remote Control Cars
are for adults too. In fact, a lot of adults are serious RC Car hobbyists.<br>
<br>
There are many different types of remote control cars that will delight
grownups. RC Cars, especially Nitro and Petrol variants, require a lot of
tuning up and customization which will challenge and excite husband or dad.
Many adult RC hobbyists admit that playing with Remote Control Cars is also a
stress buster.<br>
<br>
An RC Car will definitely make a great gift for adults on a special occasion.
It’s fun, challenging and has a relatively long lifespan thus creating
countless hours of fun that any adult will surely love.</p><h2>Remote control cars for sale</h2><p><br>
RC Masters offers a wide selection of Remote Control Cars for novice and
serious hobbyists. We also service, sell batteries,chargers and spare parts for your much-loved
machines.</p><p>Remote Control (RC) Cars</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Remote Control Cars have
definitely come a long way since the 60s when functional radio control units
were introduced. From being sold as kits with hundreds of parts to be assembled
in years past to many Ready to Run units available today, the options RC hobbyists
currently have is abundant. Since there are different types of RC Cars being
sold in Australia, one major consideration is selecting which type of RC Car do
you go for—Petrol, Nitro or Electric?&nbsp;</p><p>Read on to find out...</p><h2>Petrol Remote Control Cars</h2><p><br>
Petrol Remote Control Cars are model cars powered by miniature petrol-fed
engines. These Remote Controlled Cars that run on petrol typically require more
tinkering and fine-tuning to get the best performance and are not as easy to
set up as electric models. There’s also a bit of a learning curve you have to
get through. But once you’ve gotten past through that, these cars using remote
control easily provide great fun and satisfaction with their superb
performance.<br>
<br>
Advantages of these RC Cars:<br>
•   High power and speed<br>
•   Fast and easy refuelling<br>
•   Runs smooth for a longer period of time</p><h2>Nitro Remote Control Cars</h2><p><br>
Nitro RC Cars, like models running on petrol, also carry a miniature engine.
But this time, these RC's use Nitro Fuel or Glow Fuel. Generally, it is a mixture
of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This type of RC Car is popular because it
combines power, performance, speed and durability in one machine. Like
petrol-powered vehicles, there’s also a bit of learning curve when you’re new
to this.</p><p><br>
Cars on Glow Fuel have these Advantages:<br>
•   Runs longer because of fast refuelling<br>
•   Options for high powered engines<br>
•   The noise and smoke from these cars add realism</p><h2>Electric Remote Control Cars</h2><p><br>
Electric RC Cars are great for beginners because they are easier to use and
maintain. Instead of using miniature fuel engines to power them, they use
batteries. Newer high-capacity batteries on brushless motors can produce
vehicles that can match some Nitro-powered RC cars in speed and performance.
 <br>
<br>
Advantages of RC Cars running on battery packs:<br>
•   Easy to use and maintain<br>
•   Can be used indoors<br>
•   Runs quietly compared to fuel-based RC Cars</p><h2>Remote Control Cars for Kids</h2><p><br>
Remote Control Cars are great for kids as they are fun and educational. Instead
of staying indoors, kids now have a reason to have fun outdoors while getting
exposed to the science part of the cars—how the mechanical parts work together,
how these cars are controlled wirelessly and so on. There are many shops and
online stores in Australia that sell Remote Control Cars for kids. These Remote
Controlled Cars come in different models, colors and sizes. It is easy to
choose which ones are right for our kids since manufacturers of RC Cars have
already put information in the packaging indicating recommended age limits and
warning labels that indicate if the cars have tiny parts that could potentially
cause choking or other dangers for kids.  </p><p>RC Cars make a great gift
for kids. Why?<br>
<br>
•   It encourages them to go outdoors to play their Remote
Controlled Cars<br>
•   It is safe to operate<br>
•   It is educational; Kids learn about gears and other
mechanical parts, batteries and a lot more<br>
•   It offers a chance for parent and child to play together if the parent is also a RC hobbyist</p><h2>Remote Control Cars for Adults</h2><p><br>
Think your husband or your dad is too old for toys? Wrong. Remote Control Cars
are for adults too. In fact, a lot of adults are serious RC Car hobbyists.<br>
<br>
There are many different types of remote control cars that will delight
grownups. RC Cars, especially Nitro and Petrol variants, require a lot of
tuning up and customization which will challenge and excite husband or dad.
Many adult RC hobbyists admit that playing with Remote Control Cars is also a
stress buster.<br>
<br>
An RC Car will definitely make a great gift for adults on a special occasion.
It’s fun, challenging and has a relatively long lifespan thus creating
countless hours of fun that any adult will surely love.</p><h2>Remote control cars for sale</h2><p><br>
RC Masters offers a wide selection of Remote Control Cars for novice and
serious hobbyists. We also service, sell batteries,chargers and spare parts for your much-loved
machines.</p><p>Remote Control (RC) Cars</p>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[First Car Choice]]></title>
			<link>https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/first-car-choice/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Dec 2012 11:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.rcmasters.com.au/blog/first-car-choice/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>You might have been at the
track once and experienced the thrill and excitement of racing or you probably
know someone who introduced you to this new fixation. But whatever the reason
is if you’re new to the hobby, you will most likely need help in choosing the
best car to suit you. Before you jump into the world of radio controlled
vehicles it helps immensely to have in mind what you're looking for and what
most interests you. Ask yourself these questions to guide you better with your
choices.</p><ul><li>Will you be using the car
on road or off road?</li><li>Will you be operating two
or more cars on a 27Mhz frequency at once?</li><li>How far do you want your
car to go?</li><li>Do you want it electric or
nitro?</li><li>Length of time per tank or
battery charge?</li><li>What size/scale are you
eyeing for?</li></ul><p>There are a lot of things
you need to consider but the inherent competitive aspect of racing will most
likely get down played. So, to aid you in decision-making let’s get into the details
and here’s to answer the queries that have been bugging you.</p><ul><li>First off, if you’re
looking to use your car off road, you will need an off road model like a buggy
or a truck. They are essentially built for rough surfaces unlike road cars
which can only be used on smooth areas like asphalt or concrete. On road models
have racing tires and are built for high speeds for on road racing. Their tires
are smooth, and they are usually faster than the off-road types. They are only
good for flat surfaces, though, such as smooth roads or race tracks.</li><li>2.4 Ghz is the general frequency for todays RC vehicles which is less prone to interference but when operating two or more
cars at once on a 27Mhz frequency, you will need to use different frequency crystals in each car.
Ten or more can be maneuvered at the same time by using crystals on different
frequencies. This is easily done since these crystals are interchangeable. To
switch and replace, you will have to unplug the transmitter crystal from the
transmitter (hand-held controller) and the receiver crystal from the receiver
in the car.</li><li>The fun of driving an RC
car can be increased by extending the range that the vehicle can be controlled
from. Most cars can go approximately 100 to 200 meters on average. However, the
only way to know the range of your car is to do a range test while the engine’s
off.</li><li>Making the right choice
between an electric and a nitro vehicle can provide many years of excitement in
the RC hobby. By far the biggest difference between an electric and a nitro RC
are what make them go. The electric RC is powered by a motor that requires
electricity (in the form of a battery pack) as the fuel, which makes it easier
to use. All you need is charge the battery and you’re ready to go. The nitro RC
uses an engine fueled by a methanol-based fuel and it is generally faster and
also more expensive than electric ones.</li><li>Both nitro and electric
cars last depending on how hard it is driven or the kind of surface it is used
on. Nitro cars generally go for longer per tank than electric ones which will last for approximately 5-10 minutes with an 1800mah battery.
You can also try batteries with larger capacities that won’t easily run out.</li><li>Radio controlled vehicles
are modeled after full-size cars. The scale of the RC is its size as compared
to the real, full-size version. The scale might be 1/24 (the smallest), 1/5
(the biggest), and sizes in between 1/10 and 1/8 (the most popular).</li></ul><p>You may already have the
picture of the one you like in your head but is it the best car to start off RC
car driving with?  There are loads to choose from but what’s the best car
to go for? Before you buy, remember the questions you asked yourself earlier.
You may also want to consider factors such as cost, level of expertise, and
time available for learning and maintenance to make sure you don't get in over
your head</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You might have been at the
track once and experienced the thrill and excitement of racing or you probably
know someone who introduced you to this new fixation. But whatever the reason
is if you’re new to the hobby, you will most likely need help in choosing the
best car to suit you. Before you jump into the world of radio controlled
vehicles it helps immensely to have in mind what you're looking for and what
most interests you. Ask yourself these questions to guide you better with your
choices.</p><ul><li>Will you be using the car
on road or off road?</li><li>Will you be operating two
or more cars on a 27Mhz frequency at once?</li><li>How far do you want your
car to go?</li><li>Do you want it electric or
nitro?</li><li>Length of time per tank or
battery charge?</li><li>What size/scale are you
eyeing for?</li></ul><p>There are a lot of things
you need to consider but the inherent competitive aspect of racing will most
likely get down played. So, to aid you in decision-making let’s get into the details
and here’s to answer the queries that have been bugging you.</p><ul><li>First off, if you’re
looking to use your car off road, you will need an off road model like a buggy
or a truck. They are essentially built for rough surfaces unlike road cars
which can only be used on smooth areas like asphalt or concrete. On road models
have racing tires and are built for high speeds for on road racing. Their tires
are smooth, and they are usually faster than the off-road types. They are only
good for flat surfaces, though, such as smooth roads or race tracks.</li><li>2.4 Ghz is the general frequency for todays RC vehicles which is less prone to interference but when operating two or more
cars at once on a 27Mhz frequency, you will need to use different frequency crystals in each car.
Ten or more can be maneuvered at the same time by using crystals on different
frequencies. This is easily done since these crystals are interchangeable. To
switch and replace, you will have to unplug the transmitter crystal from the
transmitter (hand-held controller) and the receiver crystal from the receiver
in the car.</li><li>The fun of driving an RC
car can be increased by extending the range that the vehicle can be controlled
from. Most cars can go approximately 100 to 200 meters on average. However, the
only way to know the range of your car is to do a range test while the engine’s
off.</li><li>Making the right choice
between an electric and a nitro vehicle can provide many years of excitement in
the RC hobby. By far the biggest difference between an electric and a nitro RC
are what make them go. The electric RC is powered by a motor that requires
electricity (in the form of a battery pack) as the fuel, which makes it easier
to use. All you need is charge the battery and you’re ready to go. The nitro RC
uses an engine fueled by a methanol-based fuel and it is generally faster and
also more expensive than electric ones.</li><li>Both nitro and electric
cars last depending on how hard it is driven or the kind of surface it is used
on. Nitro cars generally go for longer per tank than electric ones which will last for approximately 5-10 minutes with an 1800mah battery.
You can also try batteries with larger capacities that won’t easily run out.</li><li>Radio controlled vehicles
are modeled after full-size cars. The scale of the RC is its size as compared
to the real, full-size version. The scale might be 1/24 (the smallest), 1/5
(the biggest), and sizes in between 1/10 and 1/8 (the most popular).</li></ul><p>You may already have the
picture of the one you like in your head but is it the best car to start off RC
car driving with?  There are loads to choose from but what’s the best car
to go for? Before you buy, remember the questions you asked yourself earlier.
You may also want to consider factors such as cost, level of expertise, and
time available for learning and maintenance to make sure you don't get in over
your head</p>]]></content:encoded>
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